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Fabric classroom 丨 silk fabric

September 27, 2023

Silk fabric is relative to the simulated silk fabric, generally refers to silk, including silk, tussah silk , ramie silk, cassava silk and so on.




Silk and health care Since ancient times, silk has a reputation as a "silk queen." In modern times, people have given it the reputation of "healthy fiber" and "health fiber." Wearing silk clothes, due to special moisture absorption and breathability, can regulate body temperature and regulate moisture. At the same time, it can also prevent ultraviolet radiation, resist harmful bacteria, and also enhance the vitality of skin cells on the surface and promote the metabolism of skin cells.

Silk brocade, antique satin, large satin, georgette, gold velvet, velvet, satin, jewel and silky silk, enamel, dyed taffeta silk, etc. And only dry cleaning. Silk fabrics that can be washed are combined with their respective characteristics when washing, using different washing methods.


Silk fabrics are roughly divided into 14 categories and 43 categories.

Today, the cloth sauce introduces some common silk fabrics and how to distinguish them.

Plain satin

Plain satin: It is a regular fabric in silk fabrics. The bright satin is very noble, smooth and delicate. This is the silk fabric of many people. It is made of cheongsam and has a smooth pearly luster. Bright colors!

This kind of fabric feels good on the hand, so the sale of satin clothes, the buyer's satisfaction is usually very high, easy to wrinkle, so after ironing, smooth, in order to perfectly shine its luster. Satin is a very expensive fabric. In fact, some designs are really beautiful with this fabric, noble and very big. Susie satin is suitable for dresses, scarves, shirts, etc.

Elastic enamel satin

Similar to the satin satin is the elastic satin. Compared with the plain satin, it has a certain elasticity, is not easy to wrinkle, and is good care, making up for the shortcomings of pure silk. Suitable for scarf cheongsam and so on . Elastin satin: 90%-95% mulberry silk, 5%-10% spandex, is an interwoven fabric.



It is characterized by good elasticity, comfort, relatively small shrinkage and unique style. This is not 100% silk, with other ingredients added, the fabric is elastic and the drape is quite good. This looks at the amount of silk composition, the greater the proportion of silk, the more the hand feels towards the satin, the more beautiful the gloss.


Double

Double 绉: It is a satin made from mulberry silk. Its characteristic is that the silk surface presents two-way fine wrinkles, so it is called 绉. It is an important variety of Chinese satin production and export, accounting for 15% and 10% of total silk production and exports.

Due to its many characteristics, its quality is lacking, its use is wide, it is very popular and its sales are not bad. Suitable for shirts, skirts, etc.


Power spinning

Power spinning is a silk-woven fabric of silkworm silk, which is woven with plain weave. Named after the use of factory wire and electric wire loom to replace the earth and wood weaving. Such as: Hangfang (produced in Hangzhou). Shaofang (produced in Shaoxing), Hufang (produced in Huzhou) and so on. The power textile material is compact and soft, soft to the touch, soft in gloss and comfortable to wear.

Heavy weight is mainly used as summer shirts, skirt fabrics and children's clothing fabrics; medium can be used as clothing lining; light weight can be used as petticoats, headscarves, etc. It is a high-grade fabric. Thin electric spinning can be used as a lining for wool and cashmere coats, such as shirts and dresses.




Taffeta

Taffeta: A silk fabric woven from cooked silk. Glossy, delicate and crisp, feels like umbrella cloth, especially easy to wrinkle, easy to form permanent creases, so it is not suitable for folding and heavy pressing, commonly used reel packaging. There are three kinds of traditional taffeta, tatami silk and flower taffeta, which are the traditional varieties of China's famous world, and are also special products of Suzhou and Hangzhou in China.



In particular, taffeta produced by Suzhou Dongwu Silk Weaving Factory is collectively called "Tower King". Suitable for umbrellas, skirts, shirts. It was really crisp before it was launched, and it was terrible after it was launched. Not suitable for silk lovers who are just getting started, it is not a general trouble to take care of it. The production process of taffeta is complicated, the output is not much, and it can only be supplied in a limited way, which makes it more rare and rare.

Repeat

Heavy 绉: A thick silk with a combination of latitude and longitude and latitude and longitude, and the style is similar to that of double scorpion, but it is much richer than the double scorpion. At least 4 times the thickness of the common 02 bismuth, the addition of mulberry silk Thick enamel fabric.

Heavy, here read as "chong", meaning repeating, coincidence, the craft is the multi-strand twisted weaving.


Smooth

Shun Yu: chemical fiber simulation silk fabric, the fabric structure adopts plain weave change, especially the woven fabric is suitable for the high twist of the silk. Under the condition of strong entanglement of the front latitude and longitude, after the dyeing and shrinking, the warp and weft yarn is twisted, and the cloth surface feels obvious. The finished product is naturally stretchable, and the interlaced points are firm, not easy to loosen and chapped. The cloth surface has a through-hole point, such as gauze style. The product has the advantages of softness, smoothness, breathability and easy washing, and the comfort is more. Strong, drape better.

Qiaoqi

Qiao Qi (Yeil): Qiao Qi is also called Qiao Qi, Qiao Qichen, the name comes from French (georgette). It is very similar to the chiffon pattern, I mean the chemical fiber chiffon. The difference between silk chiffon and georgette can be distinguished at a glance. Joe is light and easy to penetrate, soft and elastic, with good breathability and drape. The surface of the silk is slightly convex and the structure is loose.



In fact, the specifications of Qiao Qichen are still relatively large, mainly looking at the thickness of mulberry silk raw materials, the number of silk lines combined, the degree of twist and the density of warp and weft. Therefore, the thickness of the ordinary georgette is different, the common one is 4.5 m, 12 m, and the dense weft and longitude and latitude are not mentioned here. Personal preference for Joe, impervious, smooth, not easy to wrinkle, good care.




The earliest georgette was the silk georgette. Later, the man-made fiber was introduced. According to the raw materials used, it can be divided into silk georgette, rayon georgette, polyester georgette and interwoven georgette. If the weft yarn is only used in one direction (such as S捻), the woven georgette is called the georgette, and the georgette yarn is the pleated irregular wrinkles.


Kegen yarn

Cogan yarn: Ou Yarn, also known as Cogan yarn, also known as Organza, European yarn. English name: Organza. Organza is not necessarily silk, but also has the distinction between chemical fiber and silk. The organza in many shopping malls or Taobao shops is chemical fiber, because the silk organza and the chemical fiber organza are difficult to distinguish.


Silk organza has hardness but is not as hard as chemical fiber. Silk organza has a softer feel, does not tie the skin, is slightly stiff, but is not as stiff as the chemical fiber organza. The disadvantage is that it is very easy to collapse and hook up. Chemical fiber is much better. Organza is easy to wear and is suitable for wedding dresses and dresses, but it must be lined.

Sangbo satin

Sangbo satin: It is a conventional fabric in silk fabric. The satin texture is clear, antique and very noble.

Warp knitting

Warp Knitting: soft, delicate, soft and comfortable, it is a new fabric for knitting, with high technology content and high-grade products. This is knitted silk, this fabric is very expensive, and now there are many silk knits that are not 100% ingredients, but are made of silk mixed with other fabrics.


Silk unit

Silk fabric has a very magical unit, Mimi, the English abbreviation is MM . People who don't know silk fabrics, if they just see MM, will think it is millimeter.


In fact, this is not the case, Mumi (MM) is not a direct thickness unit, it is only a reflection of the weight of silk fabric. The conversion between it and gram is 1 m = 4.3056 g / m2.


Silk fabrics are commonly 8m, 12m, 16m, 19m, 30m, which means that the bigger the number, the heavier the fabric, and the price of silk fabric follows the weight, so The bigger the meter, the higher the price will generally be .



Silk discrimination

Observe the luster . The sheen of the silk fabric is soft and even, bright but not glaring. The rayon fabric is bright but not soft. Although the gloss of polyester yarn is uniform, there is flash or bright silk. Nylon silk fabrics have a poor gloss, as if they were coated with a layer of wax. Hand touch feeling. There is a handle when you touch the silk fabric, but other chemical products do not.


Rayon fabric is smooth and soft, but not stiff. Cotton silk fabric is not soft to the touch. Scrutinize the creases . When the hand is pinched and then released, there is no crease due to its elasticity. The rayon fabric has obvious creases after hand pinching, and the creases are difficult to restore. Although the nylon silk fabric has creases, it can slowly restore its original shape, so it must not be confused by its falsehood.


Test fiber tension . A few fibers are drawn at the edge of the fabric and moistened with the tongue. If it is easily broken at the wetted place, it is rayon, otherwise it is a silk fabric. Listen to the friction. Because the silk surface is protected by sericin and rubbed, the dried silk fabric will make a sound when it rubs against each other, so it is called "silk" or "sounding", while other chemical fiber products are silent.


The best way to tell the truth is to burn , not to draw silk. It is best to burn a small piece. Because of the silk blend, silk is not necessarily 100% silk after one latitude. The silk is flame retardant, there is no open flame, no smell, and it is powdered after rubbing it by hand. It can be tested with 84 disinfectant, the silk will dissolve, but the silk and wool blend will not work with 84.

Tips

About aroma: In general, there are scented scent, oily silk, tussah silk and the like. Other silks have less pronounced aromas.

About maintenance: dry, cold water, neutral laundry detergent, less folding, etc. The specific types of silk are still different, some can be ironed, some can be dry-cleaned, some can't..........

About blended: silk and wool blend, silk and cotton blend, silk and cashmere blend, silk and linen blend, as far as blending with chemical fiber fabrics. Natural fabric blending is actually a matter of strength. For example, wool is tied to people, and it is more delicate after adding silk. Silk is not warm, and it is relatively warmer after adding cashmere. After the flax is easily wrinkled but hygroscopic, the two are combined in a certain proportion, and are not wrinkled and more breathable.

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